Straight Talk (p.22)

By Tiffani Woodlief

To straighten or not to straighten? That is the buzz in salons these days. Every female on the planet desires the locks that grace the covers of the magazines – long, luxurious waves that are silky smooth or perfectly straight hair that glistens in the sunlight. Other than a take home hair stylist in a box, we all know that it takes the agility of a Cirque du Soleil performer to blow out your own hair to perfection. Hence the miraculous, life changing invention of hair straightening services. Though some have received bad press for their potential side effects, there are several options on the market that are life altering.

The two most popular straightening services on the market these days are the Brazilian and Japanese treatments. I am going to break down the pros and cons of each for you and explain how they are different and what client is best suited for each.

Japanese hair straightening, also known as thermal reconditioning, is a popular service that hit the market in the late 1990s. The original concept of this service was to permanently straighten locks and remove frizz from the hair. This process can take three to four hours in the salon and involves several steps to achieve the finished product. In most Japanese straightening services, a chemical, typically thioglycolate, is used to break down the cystine proteins in the hair, allowing the stylist to shape or straighten the hair as desired. We use a product by Matrix called OptiSmooth. What I love about this product is that there are two methods – a cold method and a hot method. The hot method uses a crème to soften the curl, which is applied to the hair and allowed to process. After it processes, the hair is rinsed and then blown out and flat ironed in very fine sections. Once that step is completed, the hair is neutralized to rebond and condition the newly straightened locks. The hair is blown out for a final time with little to no flat ironing and you are finished. You will leave the salon with smooth, straight hair that will require very little maintenance at home. Feedback from my clients on this method is that it cuts their drying time down and requires minimal flat ironing, if any at all. They also agree that their hair feels amazing and still has shine and luster. The cold method is great if you want softer curls that are more manageable and less frizzy. The same steps are followed as with the hot method; however, the hair is not flat ironed. The cold method also takes significantly less time, as it can be done in about an hour. Client feedback on this method is that it gives them more options with their otherwise unruly hair. (FYI – publisher and editor, Kent Lower, recently received this service and loves it!) With either of these services, your hair must not be washed for at least 48 hours after receiving it – and with the heat method, you must not put clips or bands in your hair and avoid tucking it behind yours ears, as doing so can cause crimps or bends in the hair during this duration as well. Most clients average six months before requiring a retouch. For at-home hair care, I recommend using a smoothing and moisturizing shampoo and conditioner regularly and suggest deep conditioning your hair weekly, as this is still a chemical treatment. The only negative comment that I have received about this treatment is that when opting for the hot method, you must wait until you have at least four inches of hair regrowth before touching up the service. This can be painful, particularly for those of you with extremely curly hair.

The Brazilian straightening service is a newer service that has only gained steam in recent years. It uses keratin, a basic protein found in our hair and skin, to smooth the hair's surface layer and repair any damage or flaws within it. This treatment increases shine and reduces frizz; however, it does not completely straighten the hair. The Brazilian or keratin service makes hair look and feel healthier and more polished. This is a great treatment for those with curly hair who just want to give their curls a smoother, more manageable look. It is also great for those of you who have straight hair that is frizzy and unruly, but want sleeker and shinier hair. Keratin treatments can last up to four months and do not have a line of demarcation or regrowth, as the keratin bonds break down over a period of time, leaving the hair in its original state. The controversy with keratin lies with a chemical commonly found in this treatment known as formaldehyde. When the heat from the blow dryer or the flat iron is applied to the hair with the keratin solution on it, the formaldehyde becomes a gas released into the air and in large quantities. If performed in a contained area, this treatment can be harmful to both the stylist and the client – definitely a risk to think about when researching the types of keratin available and a salon to perform the service. In its gas form, formaldehyde causes irritation to the lungs, eyes, and throat. The most commonly reported side effects are watery, itchy eyes; cough; runny nose; and nose bleed. I personally have never known anyone in my salon to experience these symptoms; however, they do exist. The key is to make sure you are in a well-ventilated, open area. Another downside to the keratin service is that your hair cannot be washed for 72 hours. As dreadful as this sounds, women still flock to salons requesting the Brazilian keratin treatment, as its results are amazing.

A great addition to the keratin family is the express blowout. The express keratin services provide the same results; however, they are more temporary. This service lasts about six weeks – longer if you stretch out your shampooing – and hair can be washed within eight hours post service. There is virtually no odor with the express blowout and the treatment can be done in a fraction of the time as the more traditional service. The cost is also more economical. All in all, I recommend the keratin express blow-out above the traditional blow out any day. Research and development on this product shows there is minimal aldehyde emission while performing the service, making it less likely for harmful side effects. I also love the blowout after a color treatment, as it seals in the color and makes the hair gleam.

If considering a straightening treatment, consult with your stylist about which is best for you, your hair type and texture, and your lifestyle. They all have their own benefits and provide amazing results. If you struggle with your hair texture and styling your hair, there are plenty of options on the market to give you the beautiful, silky, smooth, shiny hair of which you have always dreamed.

is the owner of Salon One21 & Colorbar, located in historic downtown WaTiffani Woodliefke Forest. She can be contacted by email at tiffani@salonone21.net.